Method of straightening keratinous fibers

ABSTRACT

This invention concerns a method of straightening keratinous fibers, especially hair, by applying an oily preparation, subsequently applying a composition containing ammonia and thioglycolic acid as constituents, applying tension to the fibers by gripping them between under tension between a mandrel and a clamp and subsequently releasing the tension when fibers have been straightened. The oily composition may contain cholesterol, sulphonated castor oil, sodium lauryl sulphate and water.

e United States Patent [151 3,665,935 Kingshott May 30, 1972 [54] METHOD OF STRAIGHTENING 3,472,604 10/1969 Dasher et a1 ..132/7 KERATINOUS FIBERS 3,39 91,23: 941328 ,15 11 1 4 [72] Inventor: Patricia Alexandra Klngshott, Pinetown, 3,376,375 4/1968 Natal Province, Republic of South Africa 2,855,811 12/1953 [73] Assignee: Kingshott Investments (Proprietary) Limited, Durban, Natal Providence, gg'ff' g 'f j o sis an xammer-- v r Republic of South Africa Anomey Karl w. Rocks [22] Filed: June 16, 1970 211 App]. No.1 46,653 [57] ABSTRACT This invention concerns a method of straightening keratinous [52] U 5 Cl 132/7 fibers, especially hair, by applying an oily preparation, sublsn In. .0 7/00 q y pp y g a composition containing ammonia and [58] Fie'ld 32/7 34 R thioglycolic acid as constituents, applying tension to the fibers y g pp g them between under tension between a mandrel and a clamp and subsequently releasing the tension when [56] References Cited fibers have been straightened. The oily composition may con- UNlTED STATES PATENTS tain cholesterol, sulphonated castor oil, sodium lauryl sul hate and water. 3,399,682 9/1968 lsaji ..132/7 p 9/1955 Westerberg ..l32/7 5 Claims, 2 Drawing figures METHOD STRAIGHTENING KERATINOUS FIBERS FIELD OF INVENTION DESCRIPTION OF THE PRIOR ART For many years, proposals have been made for straightening hair of a crinkly or curly nature. The use of thioglycolic acid, or a salt thereof, together with ammonia has been suggested as a means for softening hair. Many formulations containing this acid or a salt thereof have been proposed and/or utilized but it is believedthat all the proposals so far have not been entirely successful. Many of the known compositions concerned contain a caustic alkali, which has a dilepatory action and/or require the use of heat.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a method of straightening keratinous fibers of a curly or krinkly nature, which comprises the steps of applying to thekeratinous fibers an oily preparation capable of making them combable and slippery; subsequently applying a composition comprising thioglycolic acid, or a salt thereof, and ammonia; before, during or after applying the composition, applying tension to the fibers; maintaining the tension for a period of time while the composition is in contact with the fibers sufficiently long to cause a straightening of the fibers, and thereafter removing the tension, wherein the tension is applied by winding the fibers around a mandrel and gripping these wound fibers between a clamp and the mandrel.

With the method according to the present invention it is possible to straighten keratinous fibers, especially hair of a curly or crinkly nature. The straightened hair can remain in its new state until the straightened hair grows out. Furthen'nore, the method does not require the use of caustic alkalisorheat, and so can if desired, be efiected by amateurs for example at home. However, the method preferably is used by, professional hair stylists and/or beauticians. It appears that the treatment by the method according to the invention causes a marked psychological improvement a person who has naturally crinkly (i.e. fuzzy) hair. V I

The invention isparticularly applicable to the straightening -of human hair of a crinkly or'curly nature and will now be described with reference to fibers of this nature, though it is applicable to other crinkly or curly keratinous fibers.

. The first step comprises applying to the hair an oily preparation which makes it combable and slippery. Any suitable preparation having these properties may be used. A preferred preparation comprises cholesterol, a sulphonated castor oil and a sulphonated oil such as an alkali metal lauryl sulphate, a sulphonated castor oil and a sulphonated oil. A very preferred preparation is as follows:

INGREDIENT QUANTITY Cholesterol 8 ounces Sulphonated castor oil 4 ounces Sodium lauryl sulphate l ounce Distilled water 4 ounces Preferably, slightly less ammonia is used. The quantity of ammonia should be controlled, since too much of this ingredient has a caustic effect and an undesirable pungent smell. However, the ammonia is important, since it appears to enhance the wetting" of the hair by the composition, and also makes the hair absorbent to the composition.

An optional ingredient in the composition is at least one alkali metal or ammonium sulphite or sulphide, for example am- 4 monium or sodium sulphite or sulphide. This ingredient is preferably present in a comparatively small quantity, preferably about 5 parts by weight of the total composition. The sodium sulphite, if used, preferably is dissolved in a small quantity of water before being incorporated in the fonnulation. The quantity of this ingredient should be small, since too much would dry the hair. It is believed that this ingredient cooperates with the v thioglycolic acid to bring about the reasonably permanent straightening of the hair.

As a further ingredient, a surface active agent may advantageously be incorporated in the composition. The surface active agent may be anionic, cationic or nonionic. The surface active agent may be octylphenoxy polyethoxyethanol, a sodium alkyl aryl polyether sulphonate a sodium alkyl aryl polyether sulphate, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride or gum arabic. The above-mentioned surface active agents may be obtained commercially, and examples are the surfactants (also known as detergents and emulsifiers) sold by Rohm and Haas under the trade mark Triton. Examples are Triton X 100, Triton X 200, Triton X 301, and Triton X 400. If gum arabic is used it acts in addition as a thickener for the composition. The surface active agent apparently also serves to soften the hair, and is preferably employed in about equal quantity by volume compared with thethioglycolic acid.

In order to render the composition into a suitable consistency, a thinner may be incorporated. A suitable thinner is an alkanolamine, for example monoethanolamine; alternatively or in combination therewith, alcohol may be used. A quantity of thinner equal to about one half to three quarters of the total volume of the formulation, provides a composition of a suitable consistency.

Finally, sodium lauryl sulphate may be incorporated as a further ingredient. It is believed that this ingredient acts as a softener for the hair, and it also serves as a surfactant. It is preferably incorporated in a comparatively small quantity.

The composition may be made up further to the desired consistency by the addition of water, preferably distilled water. I

Preferably before applying tension, though if desired during or after applying tension, the composition is applied. The time for which tension is applied will depend on the actual constituents of the composition, the extent of the tension and the hair being treated. Preferably tension is applied until substantially all of the hair under tension is straightened though if desired smaller amounts (eg from 50 percent of the curls or krinkles) may be straightened. Tension is generally applied for from 15 to 25 minutes, though simple testing will show the optirnum time for a given head of hair. Generally, about 20 minutes is sufficient. A preferred tensioning means comprises a substantially cylindrical roller around which the hair is adapted to be gripped, means for rotating the cylindrical roller and clamping means for clamping the hair under tension. The roller may have a plurality of longitudinally extending combs on its circumference, which preferably is unperforated.

The means for rotating the roller may comprise a handle or grip at one end thereof. In one form, the handle or grip may be integral with the body part. Thus, a cylindrical tubular body may be provided, preferably being unperforated to prevent air passage so as to improve the effect of the formulation, and having a plurality of upright teeth to engage with and hold the hair. At one or both ends, the body may be formed into a handle or grip, by means of which the curler may be manipulated to wind the hair securely and speedily.

In another form, the handle or grip may be a separate element adapted to be engaged with the body part for manipulating the body part. Thus the handle may be an elongated rodlike member having keying means at its one end, and then the body part may be shaped to engage with a body part to manipulate the body part for securely and speedily winding the hair; and afterwards the handle may be removed and used on the next body part.

The clamping means may comprise a tubular body part having a longitudinal opening therein and adapted to clip over the roller with wound hair to hold it in position. The tubular body of the clamp may be of plastic and may be perforated to permit the passage of air.

The tubular body of the clamp has securing means for securing it in position. This means may comprise teeth along one of the edges of the longitudinal opening, adapted to bear against the scalp and to engage in the hair. Alternatively or in addition the tubular body of the clamp may have spring means to hold it resiliently but tightly over the curler with wound hair. For example the edges of the longitudinal opening may be biassed towards one another.

After releasing the tension, the hair preferably is rinsed. If desired, a neutralizer comprising an alkali metal bromate and optionally also comprising sodium lauryl sulphate may be applied to the hair. The oxidizing properties of neutralizers of this type are well known. Preferably, the neutralizer is subsequently rinsed out. The neutralizer may comprise about 1 part by weight of each of potassium bromate and sodium lauryl sulphate, and about 12.5 parts by weight of water.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS In the accompanying drawings:

FIG. 1 is an isometric view of a separated roller and clamp; and

FIG. 2 is an isometric view of another form of separated roller and clamp suitable for use in the present invention.

With reference to FIG. 1, a solid roller has a handle 12 at one end thereof. The circumference of the roller has a plurality of spikes 14 capable of gripping hair. The clamp comprises a longitudinal body part 16 capable of being clipped over the roller and having teeth 18, 20 extending along a longitudinal opening therein.

In FIG. 2, a solid roller 10 has teeth in the form of a plurality of ridges 22 between cuts on its circumference. The roller has a slot 24 in one end, into which a winding handle 26 can be fitted. Clamp 28 has a cylindrical body part 30, open edges 32, 34 of which are biassed towards each other. Handles 36, 38 enable the edges to be forced away from each other.

EXAMPLES The following examples illustrate preferred thioglycolic acid containing compositions which can be used'in the method of the invention.

Water (distilled) 2| mls First the thioglycollic acid and ammonia are mixed, and then the sodium sulphite (dissolved in water) is added, while stirring. Next the Triton is added slowly, and subsequently the mono-ethanolamine and alcohol, still with continuous stirring. Finally the sodium lauryl sulphate is added, and the formulation is made up to the desired consistency by the addition of water.

The formulation preferably has a thick, creamy consistency,

with a pH of about 9.5 and a specific gravity of about 1.06.

It has been found that coarse, naturally crinkly or fuzzy hair treated according to the invention with this composition, became permanently straightened, or at least straightened for prolonged periods, and acquired a soft, silky feel and easily manageable quality.

1. A method of straightening a persons krinkly or curly hair substantially without causing pain to the scalp, which comprises the steps of rinsing the hair with an oily preparation to make the hair combable and slippery; subsequently applying a composition comprising ammonia and a compound selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, applying tension to the hair strands by winding the hair strands under tension around a mandrel and providing a clamp over the mandrel to grip the hair strands wound thereon whereby the individual strands are under tension on the parts wound around the mandrel but are substantially free from tension on the part between the mandrel and the person's scalp; maintaining the tension for a period of time while the composition is in contact with the hair strands sufficiently long to cause a straightening of the fibers; and thereafter removing the tension.

2. A method in accordance with claim 1, wherein tension is applied to the hair strands before the ammonia-containing composition is applied.

3. A method in accordance with claim 1, wherein tension is applied to the hair strands after the ammonia-containing composition is applied.

4. A method in accordance with claim 1, wherein the ammonia-containing composition further comprises a sulphurcontaining compound selected from the group consisting of alkali metal sulphides, ammonium sulphide, alkali metal sulphites and ammonium sulphite.

5. A method in accordance with claim 4, wherein the ammonia-containing composition contains a member selected from the group consisting of surface active agents and alkanolamines.

* lit 1* l 

2. A method in accordance with claim 1, wherein tension is applied to the hair strands before the ammonia-containing composition is applied.
 3. A method in accordance with claim 1, wherein tension is applied to the hair strands after the ammonia-containing composition is applied.
 4. A method in accordance with claim 1, wherein the ammonia-containing composition further comprises a sulphur-containing compound selected from the group consisting of alkali metal sulphides, ammonium sulphide, alkali metal sulphites and ammonium sulphite.
 5. A method in accordance with claim 4, wherein the ammonia-containing composition contains a member selected from the group consisting of surface active agents and alkanolamines. 